Junya Watanabe’s AW11-12 collection was an important reference for the headpiece, especially for the more technical issues that I encountered while actually building and sewing it. I wanted to achieve this kind of hard, rigid, restricting and severe look. Watanabe’s jackets made extensive use of darts in order to bring this thick-looking leather to the desired shape. Topstitching is used to flatten the seams and give the jackets a nice finish.

All photos from Vogue.co.uk.